MĀÔILI BEACH DESCRIPTION
MāÔili (transects 0 - 140) is located on the west coast
of OÔahu. The shoreline is composed of carbonate sand and limestone rock. The
area is exposed to southerly swells in summer months, northerly swells in
winter months and southerly waves from winter Kona storms.
MāÔili Point (transects 0 - 34) is eroding at a rate of
-0.1 ft/yr, averaged along its length. The northern half of the point
(transects 0 -19) has remained approximately stable since 1928, likely due to
protection from the shallow reef offshore and limestone outcrops along the
shoreline. The southern half of the point (transects 20 – 40), with less
protection from the reef, has experienced erosion up to -0.5 ft/yr. Widening of
the MāÔili Channel mouth in the early 1960's has also contributed to
erosion on the north side of the point.
The shoreline at MāÔili Beach (transects 36 - 140) is
highly variable with outcrops of limestone intermittently buried and exposed
along the shore by shifting sand. The shallow fringing reef disappears north of
MāÔili Point and waves typically break directly on the shore. Beach
surveys at the north end of MāÔili Beach show that the shoreline is highly
variable due to changes in seasonal wave directions. The shoreline in the north
typically erodes 60 feet landward in winter and recovers in summer.
Removal of beach sand by mining operations at MāÔili
Beach has resulted in a landward shift of the shoreline of over 300 feet in
some areas over the last century. Mining operations are visible in air photos
from 1949 and 1967. The effect of sand mining is apparent in the landward shift
of historical shorelines from 1928 to 1949. Sand mining also contributes to the
high long-term erosion rates calculated for MāÔili Beach (-1.2 ft/yr) averaged along the
length of the beach and up to -3.4 ft/yr in the north of the beach. Inspection
of the time series of shoreline positions indicates that erosion has slowed
over the last few decades since mining ceased. Limestone outÂcrops exposed by
erosion may be helping to stabilize the remaining beach.
Previous studies found seaward movement of the vegetation
line in the middle of MāÔili Beach and chronic erosion at either end from
1949 -1988. Results from these studies likely reflected
recovery of the shoreline since sand mining operations ceased in the second
half of the century and cultivation of the vegetation line along MāÔili
Beach Park. The effects of
sand mining could not be removed by omitting early shorelines because the
shortened time series, in combination with large seasonal beach movements,
resulted in unstable shoreline change rates.
For more information see: http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/asp/coasts/oahu/index.asp
1 Hwang, D. (1981) "Beach changes on Oʻahu as
revealed by aerial photographs", State of Hawaii, Department of Planning
and Economic Development.
2 Sea Engineering, Inc. (1988) ÒOʻahu shoreline studyÓ,
City and County of Honolulu, Department of Land Utilization.
Keywords:
Oʻahu; MāÔili Beach; MāÔili Point